Mike Hynson, who epitomized the picture of the bronzed surf god as a star of the hit 1966 browsing documentary “The Countless Summer season” and, together with his outlaw instincts, embodied the insurgent ethos of the game on his solution to being hailed a colossus of the curl, died on Jan. 10 in Encinitas, Calif. He was 82.
His demise, in a hospital, was confirmed by Donna Klaasen Jost, who collaborated with Hynson on his 2009 autobiography, “Transcendental Reminiscences of a Surf Insurgent.” She mentioned the trigger was not but recognized.
Hynson arose in an period when browsing was usually marginalized as a curious ritual of West Coast teenage tradition, because of frothy matinee fare like “Seaside Blanket Bingo” (1965) and a swell of Seaside Boys hits. He was hailed not just for his expertise on the waves, but in addition as a famous builder of boards, notably the favored Pink Fin longboard, which he designed for the producer Gordon & Smith in 1965.
His was “one of many biggest surf lives ever lived,” Jake Howard wrote in Surfer journal after Hynson’s demise, describing him as “a hot-dog performer, a shaping genius, a cosmic adventurer” who “altered the game and tradition of browsing in an untold variety of methods.”
Hynson’s life grew to become the stuff of lore beginning in 1963, when he was invited by the filmmaker Bruce Brown to affix him and Robert August, one other younger Southern California surfer, on a trek that will lead them by means of Senegal, Ghana, South Africa, Australia, Tahiti, New Zealand and Hawaii, hopping the Equator to keep away from the slightest chill of winter whereas trying to find the proper wave.
Hynson was solely 21 however had already constructed a popularity as a maverick energy surfer on the seashores round San Diego. He could possibly be cocky and aloof, buddies recalled — however not with out cause: He already proved his mettle as one of many first non-native Hawaiians to journey Pipeline, on the North Shore of the Hawaiian island of Oahu, typically referred to as essentially the most harmful wave on the planet, in 1961.
He actually regarded digital camera prepared, together with his caramel tan and sun-whitened hair pomaded again in Dracula trend, a coiffure quickly to be imitated by surfers all over the world.
Mr. Brown had solely $50,000 for his challenge, leaving his stars to pay for their very own tickets all over the world. To finance his journey, Hynson turned to the famend board maker Hobie Alter, whom he had labored for, to offer him $1,400 for airfare, “regardless that I’d stolen 9 surfboards off him just a few years earlier,” he mentioned in a 2017 interview with the British newspaper The Guardian.
Unbeknown to his strait-laced companions, Hynson introduced together with him a stash of amphetamines and a three-month provide of Tijuana marijuana. “I used to be younger, silly and loaded,” he mentioned in a 2009 interview with OC Weekly, an alternate newspaper in Orange County, Calif.
The primary cease was Senegal, the place the locals “have been utilizing picket planks to stomach board round within the waves,” Hynson instructed The Guardian, “so once they noticed Robert and me browsing upright, they have been overwhelmed.”
Greater sport awaited them. Hynson lastly noticed their quarry at Cape St. Francis, on South Africa’s south coast — a “good reeling right-hander, and not using a surfer in sight,” as Surfer journal as soon as described it.
“On Mike’s first journey,” Mr. Brown mentioned in his narration of “The Countless Summer season,” “the primary 5 seconds, he knew he’d lastly discovered that good wave.” The waves, he added, “regarded like they’d been made by some sort of a machine. The rides have been so lengthy I couldn’t get them on one piece of movie.”
In his autobiography, Hynson recalled the expertise: “I haven’t had too many adrenaline rushes like that in my life, a pure and pure phenomenon. It was electrical. The hair on my neck stood straight up.”
Michael Lear Hynson was born on June 28, 1942, in Crescent Metropolis, Calif., close to the Oregon border, the elder of two sons of Robert Hynson, an engineer who labored for the Navy, and Grace (Wheaton) Hynson. In his early years, the household divided its time between Hawaii and San Diego, lastly settling in Southern California when he was 10. As a teen, he took up browsing with a crew referred to as the Sultans.
After graduating from La Jolla Excessive Faculty in San Diego, Hynson discovered himself dodging letters from the draft board within the early years of the Vietnam battle. “I’d been sidestepping them for 3 years,” he wrote in his e book. The around-the-world journey for the movie, he added, “was the miracle I wanted.”
The journey introduced no scarcity of challenges. On a layover in Mumbai on the way in which from South Africa to Australia, Hynson needed to tape 5 16-millimeter movie canisters containing the treasured Cape St. Francis footage beneath a saggy Hawaiian shirt, to sneak it previous Indian customs brokers who had been confiscating cameras and movie in a crackdown on unauthorized pictures.
Distributors initially confirmed little curiosity. Warner Bros., Hynson wrote, “predicted it could by no means transcend 10 miles from the seashore.” Mr. Brown finally proved them unsuitable, attracting traces across the block for a screening in Wichita, Kan., throughout a driving snowstorm. “The Countless Summer season” went on to gross greater than $30 million.
By the late Nineteen Sixties, Hynson was off on one other quest, this time to search out enlightenment with the Brotherhood of Everlasting Love, a band of psychonauts and drug smugglers within the Laguna Seaside space. The Brotherhood blended components of Jap faith with a religion within the transformative powers of psychedelic medicine, which they dealt in such prodigious portions that the authorities branded them the “hippie mafia.”
Hynson was quickly taking LSD recurrently, however he evaded arrest lengthy sufficient to make one other cinematic foray: He masterminded “Rainbow Bridge” (1972), which he initially conceived as a browsing movie. The movie, directed by Chuck Wein, a protégé of Andy Warhol, advanced right into a quasi documentary about mysticism, browsing and medicines, climaxing with a Jimi Hendrix live performance on the base of the Haleakala volcano in Maui.
In a single scene, Hynson eagerly breaks open a surfboard and produces a hidden bag of cannabis (really Ovaltine), reflecting a smuggling tactic he had employed with the Brotherhood.
Regardless of the movie’s giddy portrayal of drug use, Hynson’s dependence on medicine, notably cocaine and methamphetamine, finally led to a precipitous slide, together with time behind bars for drug possession. “I hit all-time low,” he instructed OC Weekly, “after which stayed there for some time.”
He finally pulled out of his spiral and commenced crafting surfboards once more. He credited his ex-wife, Melinda Merryweather, a former mannequin for the Ford Company, and his longtime associate, Carol Hannigan, as his “angels.”
Ms. Hannigan survives him, as does Michael Hynson Jr., his son from his first marriage.
In a 1986 video interview, Hynson regarded again on his good journey in South Africa and puzzled whether or not he and his companions had invented a browsing fantasy with it or just mirrored one already embedded within the surfer consciousness. “If we wouldn’t have had ‘Countless Summer season,’” he requested, “you suppose there would nonetheless be this quest of an ideal wave? Suppose anyone would even care?”
“I didn’t notably care,” he mentioned. “However once I noticed it, I knew precisely then that we had popped a bubble and made a dream.”
